Build & install FAQ

Dump-truck loads = loose (swelled) cubic yards ÷ truck capacity (often ~10–14 cu yd per load). First find the bank volume from the hole's dimensions, apply the soil swell factor (about 20–35%), then divide by the truck size.

Excavated soil expands when dug — the swell (or fluff) factor adds roughly 20–35% to the in-ground (bank) volume. Loose yards to haul = bank yards × (1 + swell %); clay swells more than sand.

Over-dig is the extra space dug beyond the pool shell so crews can work and set walls — usually about 2 feet beyond the pool on each side and below. Add that margin to the pool's dimensions before computing excavation volume.

Call 811 before any digging so utilities can mark buried gas, electric, water, and communication lines — hitting one is dangerous and can be illegal. It's a free service and the required first step; this is a safety must, not optional.

A 16 × 32 pool excavation (with over-dig and a deep end) commonly yields roughly 150–250 loose cubic yards after swell, depending on depth and shape. Compute the hole's bank volume, add the swell factor, and the calculator above gives loose yards.

Soil weight varies by type, but loose excavated dirt runs roughly 1.0–1.5 tons per cubic yard. Multiply your loose cubic yards by the soil's per-yard weight for total tons — clay and wet soil weigh more.

For a sloped deep end, split the hole into a shallow box and a deep box (or a box plus a sloped wedge), volume each from its own depth, and add them — including over-dig. Don't use the deepest point as a single uniform depth.

Clay expands more on excavation (often near 30%) because its compacted structure breaks into loose clumps with lots of air gaps. That's why clay sites generate more loose hauling volume than sandy ones for the same hole.

Tandem-axle trucks hold roughly 10–14 cubic yards each, so loads = loose yards ÷ that capacity. A 16 × 32 dig of ~200 loose yards is about 15–20 truckloads — confirm capacity with your hauler.

Loose hauling yards = compacted (bank) yards × (1 + swell factor). With a 25% swell, 100 bank yards becomes 125 loose yards to truck away. Pick the swell % for your soil type.

For a freeform shell, break the hole into simple boxes/cylinders matching the pool's sections (with over-dig), volume each at its own depth, add them, then apply the swell factor. The section approach handles the irregular outline.

Keep excavation a safe distance from the house foundation and follow your engineer's or local code's setback guidance, since digging too close can undermine footings. A site engineer should confirm safe clearance — don't eyeball it near structures.

Hauling cost per cubic yard varies by region and distance, typically a per-yard removal rate plus trucking fees. Multiply your loose cubic yards by the local per-yard rate for an estimate, and get quotes since rates differ.

Compute the hole's volume with basic geometry: shallow box (length × width × shallow depth) plus deep section, all including over-dig, summed in cubic feet, then ÷ 27 for bank cubic yards. Apply the swell factor for loose yards.

Swell (fluff) factors differ by soil: sandy soil swells less (~15–20%) while heavy clay or rock swells more (~30–40%+). Pick the factor matching your site; rock especially fluffs up a lot when broken.

Cubic metres of bank earth = hole length × width × average depth in metres (with over-dig). Multiply by the swell factor for loose volume, or convert cubic yards by ×0.765. The metric unit reads it directly.

Restricted access (narrow gates, tight yards) forces smaller equipment and more passes, roughly doubling time on some sites because dirt must be moved in stages. It doesn't change the volume, but it raises labor and time — get a site-specific quote.

An integrated hot tub adds its own excavation: volume the spa hole (with over-dig) separately and add it to the pool's bank volume before applying the swell factor. It's usually a modest extra few cubic yards.

Hitting a utility line can cause injury, service outages, fines, and repair liability — which is exactly why 811 marking is required first. We won't detail penalties, but the safety risk alone makes calling 811 non-negotiable.

Gravel sub-base volume = floor area × base thickness (e.g. 4–6 inches), converted to cubic yards, then divide by the truck/load size for deliveries. It's separate from the dirt being hauled out — base material comes in.

For a 12 × 24 pool, compute the hole's bank yards (with over-dig and deep end), apply the swell factor for loose yards, then divide by truck capacity for loads. The calculator above totals it — expect a smaller project than a 16 × 32.

Soil swell is the volume increase when compacted in-ground earth is excavated and loosened, creating air gaps that expand the apparent volume by 20–40%. It's why you haul away more loose yards than the hole's measured volume.

For vinyl-liner panel pools, the over-dig must clear the panel and bracing — often about 2 feet beyond the wall line — so add that margin around the whole perimeter before computing excavation. Follow the panel system's specified over-dig.

Contractors price by soil composition because clay, sand, and rock dig at very different speeds and swell rates — rock may need special equipment, while wet clay is heavy and slow. The soil type drives both excavation time and hauling volume.

For multi-tiered slopes, split the hole into stacked prisms (each tier a box or sloped wedge), volume each from its own depth with over-dig, and sum them, then apply the swell factor. Sectioning the slope is more accurate than one average depth.

Total liner area = floor area + wall area. Floor uses the pool's footprint formula (rectangle, circle, etc.); walls = perimeter × wall height. Add a small overlap/seam allowance, and measure the deep-end slope as part of the floor.

Above-ground overlap liners need extra material to fold over the top rail — typically several inches of overlap allowance beyond the wall height. Follow the liner type's spec (overlap, beaded, or J-hook) for the exact allowance.

Wall area = perimeter × wall height; floor area = the footprint (length × width for a rectangle, π × r² for a round). They're calculated separately because the wall wraps the perimeter while the floor covers the base — then summed for total liner.

For a deep-end hopper, measure the hopper pad (flat bottom), the slope length down to it, and the transition walls, treating the sloped sections as their own panels. A liner takeoff needs these hopper measurements, not just the surface footprint.

A 15 × 30 oval above-ground liner's area = oval floor (15 × 30 × 0.7854 ≈ 353 sq ft) + walls (perimeter × wall height) + overlap allowance. Add the perimeter wall area to the floor for the total material.

Rectangular wall area = perimeter × wall height = 2 × (length + width) × wall height. For a 16 × 32 pool with 4 ft walls that's 2 × 48 × 4 = 384 sq ft of wall, before the floor and seam allowance.

For a custom inground replacement liner you need length, width, shallow and deep depths, the hopper pad dimensions, slope length, and any step/bench details. Manufacturers use this 'A-B' measurement set to build the takeoff — measure carefully or have a pro do it.

A mitered or radius corner changes the floor and perimeter slightly — for radius corners, subtract the corner area (square minus quarter-circle) and add the curved perimeter length. For most liners the difference is small but matters for a precise fit.

An 18 × 36 rectangular pool's liner ≈ floor (648 sq ft) + walls (2 × 54 × wall height) + slope/hopper area + seam allowance. With 4 ft walls the walls add ~432 sq ft — total depends on the deep-end profile.

A safety step ledge adds liner area for the step faces and treads — measure each step's rise and run and add their surface to the total. Steps increase material slightly beyond the plain wall-and-floor calculation.

Skipping the overlap allowance on an above-ground liner leaves too little material to fold over the rail, so the liner pulls down and pops off as it stretches. Always add the specified overlap so there's enough to secure over the top.

Round above-ground interior area = floor (π × r²) + wall (circumference × wall height) = π × r² + (π × diameter × wall height). Add the overlap allowance for the rail.

The sloped transition wall is measured along the slope (the actual diagonal length), not the horizontal run, so the liner covers the full sloped face. Measure the slope length and the width it spans for the panel size.

Total square yards = total square feet ÷ 9. A 20 × 40 conversion's floor plus walls plus slope can run well over 2,000 sq ft, so divide your summed sq ft by 9 for yards — measure the actual profile to total it.

For an L-shaped pool, compute each leg's floor and wall area separately (two rectangles), add the shared-corner walls once, include the deep-end slope, then sum — the same sectioning used for its volume. Add a seam allowance for the joint.

Liner thickness is given in mil (thousandths of an inch) or gauge; higher mil/gauge is thicker and more durable but doesn't change the area you need. Pick thickness for durability, and calculate area separately.

A drop-in fiberglass step assembly covers part of the wall, so subtract its footprint from the liner area where it sits. Measure the step unit's wall coverage and deduct it from the perimeter wall area.

A kidney pool's liner area = kidney floor ((A + B) × length × 0.45) + wall (perimeter × wall height) + slope/hopper + seam allowance. The curved perimeter makes wall measurement the tricky part — measure around the actual edge.

A manufacturing takeoff sheet lists every dimension: lengths, widths, shallow/deep depths, hopper pad, slope lengths, corner radii, and step details. The liner is built to those exact measurements, so accuracy here determines the fit.

Freeform liners need multi-point triangulation — a grid of measured points across the pool — because no simple formula captures the irregular curves, so the manufacturer reconstructs the shape from the points. A professional measure is strongly recommended for freeform.

A Roman pool's interior area = stadium floor (rectangle + circle ends) + wall (perimeter × wall height) + slope + seam allowance. The curved ends add to both floor and perimeter — measure the straight run and end width.

You can measure a deep-end hopper without draining by using a pole and tape to record the slope length, pad dimensions, and depths from the deck and waterline. A pro measure is more reliable for a replacement, but careful pole measurements work for an estimate.

Liner area doesn't relate to water pressure for sizing — you order by surface area (floor + walls + slope), not by pressure. Water pressure affects wall bracing and structure, which is a separate engineering concern.

Material cost = total liner area (sq ft) × the liner's price per sq ft (which rises with thickness/mil). Get the area from the calculator, pick your mil, and multiply by the per-foot price — add overlap material to the area first.

Material cost = total interior liner area (floor + walls + slope + overlap, in sq ft) × the liner's price per sq ft, which rises with thickness. Get the area from the calculator, pick your mil, and multiply for an estimate.

Ring count ≈ pool surface area ÷ a single ring's area, then add some because round rings leave gaps. Circle packing covers only about 78.5% of the area, so you'll need extra rings — or accept some uncovered surface.

Round rings can't tile a surface without gaps — even perfectly packed circles cover only about 78.5% of the area, leaving ~21% uncovered. That gap loss is why rings are less complete than a solid blanket.

A solid rectangular blanket is sized to the pool's bounding length and width, then trimmed along the actual edges with scissors to follow the shape. Buy to the maximum length and width and cut to fit; the material trims easily.

Even at best packing, round rings leave about 21% of the surface uncovered (circle packing tops out near 78.5% coverage). That uncovered fraction is the gap between rings where heat and water still escape.

Rings needed ≈ (15 × 30 = 450 sq ft) ÷ one ring's area, then add ~20% for packing gaps. With common ~5 ft rings (~19.6 sq ft each) that's roughly 23 rings before the gap allowance, so plan for a few more.

Circle packing density (~78.5%, i.e. π/4) is the most surface that non-overlapping circles can cover — the rest is unavoidable gaps. For pools it means rings leave about a fifth of the surface exposed no matter how you arrange them.

Choose rings for easy handling and partial coverage (no rolling needed), or a solid blanket for maximum heat and water retention with no gaps. Rings are convenient; a blanket is more effective per dollar of coverage.

A 24 ft round pool needs a solar blanket sized to ~24 ft diameter (about 452 sq ft), trimmed to the edge. Buy a round blanket at or just above the diameter and cut it to fit.

Rings for an 18 × 36 oval ≈ oval area (18 × 36 × 0.7854 ≈ 509 sq ft) ÷ one ring's area, plus ~20% for gaps. With ~5 ft rings that's roughly 26 rings before the packing allowance.

Ring count = pool surface area ÷ (π × ring radius²). Divide your pool's surface (footprint) area by a single ring's circle area, then add extra for the packing gaps.

Trim a 20 × 40 solid blanket to a freeform pool by floating it, letting it relax over the surface, then cutting along the waterline edge with scissors. Buy the blanket to cover the freeform's maximum length and width, then cut to the curve.

Gaps between round rings let heat and water vapor escape through the uncovered ~21% of the surface, so rings retain less than a gap-free blanket. The more complete the coverage, the more heat you keep.

Rings for a kidney pool ≈ kidney surface area ((A + B) × length × 0.45) ÷ one ring's area, plus ~20% for gaps. The curved shape leaves more edge gaps, so round up.

A 12-mil rectangular solar cover's weight ≈ area (sq ft) × the material's weight per sq ft (check the product spec). Heavier 12-mil covers retain more heat but are bulkier to handle — the spec sheet gives the exact weight.

A solid blanket covers 100% of the surface for maximum heat retention, while rings cover only ~78.5% due to packing gaps — so a blanket is thermally more efficient. Rings trade some efficiency for easier handling.

For a Grecian or Roman pool, buy a blanket to the bounding length and width and trim along the chamfered corners or curved ends to follow the shape. Solid blankets cut easily to any geometric outline.

A solid cover is sized to the surface area with a small margin for trimming, not a big overlap — buy to length × width and trim to the edge. Unlike a liner, there's no fold-over allowance needed for a floating blanket.

Rings for a round spa ≈ spa surface area (π × r²) ÷ one ring's area; small spas often take just one or a few rings. For a tight fit, a trimmed solid cover usually beats rings on a small surface.

A roll-up reel needs the cover's full length plus a little slack to attach to the tube, so size the blanket to the pool and the reel to the blanket's width. Account for the pool's longest dimension when choosing the reel.

Rings for a 16 × 32 pool ≈ 512 sq ft ÷ one ring's area, plus ~20% for packing gaps. With ~5 ft rings (~19.6 sq ft) that's about 26 rings before the gap allowance.

A solid blanket reduces top-off frequency by cutting evaporation ~90% — water saved ≈ surface area × daily drop × 0.6233 × 0.9 per day. Less evaporation means fewer refills, which the calculator can estimate from your surface area.

For a side step alcove, size the solid blanket to the main pool's bounding dimensions and trim a notch around the alcove, or leave it slightly long and cut to fit. The alcove is a small trim, not a separate cover.

Circle packing caps ring coverage at about 78.5% (π/4) because non-overlapping circles always leave gaps between them — that's a geometric limit, not a product flaw. It's why even a full set of rings can't fully cover the surface.

Cost difference = (rings needed × price per ring) versus (blanket area × price per sq ft). Rings can be cheaper to start but cover less; a blanket costs more but covers fully — compare total coverage per dollar above.

Compare total cost: rings = (rings needed × price per ring) for ~78.5% coverage; a solid blanket = (surface area × price per sq ft) for full coverage. Weigh coverage per dollar above — rings can be cheaper upfront but cover less.